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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.